Pat Dollard | Young Americans

Saddam Hussein the ‘martyr’ – inside tyrant’s tomb
Our correspondent is the first British journalist to visit the executed Iraqi leader’s grave in al-Awja

Deborah Haynes - (Times Online)

Graffiti on a wall near the hall where Saddam Hussein is buried describes him as the “martyr of the Arab nation”, another line simply says: “Long live Saddam”.

Inside the tomb, which is treated more like a shrine, the sense of adoration grows stronger. Photographs of the executed president with a smile on his face adorn the walls, along with gifts and a number of poems inspired by his death.

The former dictator’s body rests in the centre of the room. His grave, framed by plastic flowers, is covered in a white sheet embroidered with gold. The old flag of Iraq lies at its head, a final act of defiance to the new Iraqi Government.

Almost two years after he was hanged for crimes against humanity, Saddam and his mustachioed image live on in the hearts of his followers who flock in increasing numbers to the burial site in al-Awja, a village near Tikrit, north of Baghdad, where the dictator spent much of his childhood, to pay their respects.

Plans are underway to turn the hall, originally built to hold celebrations, into a museum to commemorate the former leader’s life, according to Falah Hassan al-Neda, son of the head of Saddam’s tribe.

“This is to make sure he is never forgotten,” Mr al-Neda, 35, told The Times on a visit to the site. The Albu Nassir tribe is in charge of maintaining the tomb and defending Saddam’s memory.

When he was captured nearly five years ago, many Iraqis rejoiced. When he was hanged three years later his enemies celebrated by firing shots in the air. His persecution of Kurds in the north and Shia Muslim Arabs to the south left hundreds of thousands of people dead, while his war with Iran and the invasion of Kuwait caused even more suffering. During his rule all opposition was brutally suppressed.

But the chaos of post-invasion Iraq, and years of savage sectarian violence, have caused Iraqis to reconsider their views of Saddam’s ruthless but stable 35 years in power. A growing number regret his passing and look back on his era with nostalgia.

This trend is evidenced by the number of visitors to his grave, travelling from all over Iraq from Basra in the south to Iraqi Kurdistan in the north.

“I felt very sad when I entered the tomb,” said one Baghdad resident, after a recent trip. “Things were bad under Saddam but now they are much worse, even though the security situation is better than 12 months ago.” A large guest book lies at the entrance to the burial suite, displaying the signatures of many of the visitors. Five other books have already been filled.

“This place is gradually becoming like a shrine. Not one where people come for blessing but where they come out of love,” said Ahmed Dahan, one of the guards.

“Sometimes the visitors cry. It becomes very emotional and we have to step outside,” he said.

The average number of families coming per day has risen to about 15 from around 5 a year ago, said Mr Dahan. He expects thousands to descend for the second anniversary of Saddam’s death on December 30.

Embroidery on curtains in the windows reads “Martyrs’ Hall”, in honour of Saddam. Outside the yellow-brick building lie the graves of his two sons, Uday and Qusay, and grandson Mustapha, aged 14, all killed in a US raid in 2003. Two male assistants are also buried there.

A fortnight ago, tribal members restored an office in the hall that was once used by Saddam, including pictures of him on the phone and brandishing a rifle.

Cream-coloured sofas, used by guests of the former dictator, line the small room, while his old, wooden desk sits in one corner. Tribesmen had kept the furniture in storage since the invasion to protect it from the threat of looting.

“When the security situation becomes more stable there are more items for us to display,” said Talal Misrab, the head guard in charge of protecting the tomb and a former Saddam bodyguard.

“For example, the shoes he was wearing when he was executed and some of his civilian suits.” There are also plans to recreate a bedroom he once used.

He is glad still to be working for the man whose whose legacy still casts a long shadow over the country.

“He ruled us for 35 years,” said Mr Misrab. “There is good and there is bad in it. We love him.”

Creating a shrine

— Saddam is buried in al-Awja, the village where he spent much of his childhood

— Plans are under way to turn the hall, originally built to hold celebrations, into a museum to him

— The average number of families visiting every day has risen to about fifteen from about five a year ago

— Embroidery on curtains in the windows reads “Martyrs’ Hall”, in honour of Saddam

— Cream sofas, used by guests of the former dictator, line the small room

— His old wooden desk sits in one corner Tribesmen kept the furniture in storage after the invasion to protect it from looting

— “When the security situation becomes more stable there are more items for us to display,” said Talal Misrab, the tomb’s head guard. “For example, the shoes he was wearing when he was executed and some of his civilian suits”

— There are also plans to recreate a bedroom that he once used

And shall we review those tombs of martyers in Iraq provided by Saddam?