The Physics Of Surfing Parts 1 & 2 … Fucking Cool As Usual
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Bash tells me he knows this first dude surfing Jaws … and that’s all I’m gonna say about that.
SciTech –
The Physics of Surfing (Part One: Dropping In)
There are few things more impressive than watching a big-wave surfer dropping into a monstrous “bomb” 60 or 70 feet high. Actually doing it must be quite an adrenaline rush. (I’ve been out in waves maybe a fifth that size and even then the energy of the wave can be, well… terrifying!) In the video we can see that the surfer gets towed into the wave with the aid of a jet ski. If you’re familiar with surfing you might be aware that once waves get big enough (wave faces larger than 40 or 50 feet) it’s impossible to paddle into them in the “traditional” way: you have to be towed in. Why is this? Not surprisingly, it all has to do with some basic principles of physics.
The Physics of Surfing (Part Two: Tubes and Barrels)
Probably the most sought-after surfing experience is the tube ride (a.k.a. “getting barreled”). A tube ride occurs when the top of the wave pitches over the surfer so that he or she is completely enclosed in an oval space behind the curtain of falling water. Inside the “green room,” you are hurtling through a tunnel of water and the only way out (without wiping out) is straight through the opening in front of you. Hollow waves are foot-for-foot the most powerful variety of breaking wave, and good tube riding is really difficult. It requires timing, experience, and skill. The video shows us some world-class surfers making it look easy!
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